This week, after a few weeks off recuperating from a mild A2 pulley strain, I finally got back on the rock. My first session back was definitely a struggle bus on even the easiest problems. I was just really paranoid about re-injuring myself. But this morning I felt almost normal and really enjoyed climbing again….
Category: Health
On the Importance of Multiple Passions
An older figure I know has devoted his entire life to his profession. He’s excellent at it. It’s also the only thing he has practiced with any kind of dedication or passion for the last 40 or so years of his life. So now that he is in retirement age, he doesn’t have much else…
Rock Climbing Chronicles: A2 Pulley Strains Suck!
At the beginning of the month I got the most common injury that rock climbers get. It isn't a leg, arm or head injury. It's to the tiniest muscles that have to bear all of your weight: your fingers. Specifically, I have what's called an A2 Pulley Strain. Your fingers are composed of tendons, sheaths…
Health Update: Feeling Stronger, Energetic
I'm entering 2018 feeling pretty great. This month I relaxed my paleo-focused diet to introduce more carbs during one of my meals, which so far has not had much of any impact on anything, other than reintroducing me to the joys of sandwiches and burritos. Mmm, sandwiches. Activity-wise, I'm climbing about three times a week,…
Health Update: Carb-ing It Up!
For the past year or so, I've been doing various versions of no-sugar, no-carb / low-carb dieting. I've found it really helpful for my health, energy, weight, and general well-being. And for the most part really easy and tasty. I've been going on the assumption that these dietary practices have been activating the ketosis metabolic…
Sending a V2 with an Underhang
This V2 and the similar one next to it at Planet Granite was kicking my ass the last week or so. Today I got over the weirdness of hanging upside down and sent it. Actually really easy, after I got over that feeling.
Sending a V3
This morning I sent this V3-rated bouldering route that had been bedeviling me at Planet Granite SF. For a couple of weeks I couldn't even get to the first hold, and it was irking me. Finally I figured out that I had to do a quick switch in grip from a pull to a push…
Study of 135K Individuals Concludes High Carb Diet Linked to Higher Mortality
Here’s something to make you reconsider that bowl of pasta. The largest global study looking at environmental, societal and biological influences on obesity and chronic health conditions just released their findings, and it doesn’t look good for carb-based diets. Led by co-investigators Drs. Salim Yusuf and Koon Teo at McMaster University, this mega study of…
How to Exercise: Keep Moving, Do What You Love
I realize that I haven't written much about my exercise practices, as much as I write about food choices and diet. Obviously exercise is as important to health as diet. (But diet is much more important than exercise for weight control.) Here's what a typical week looks like for me these days. I don't have…
Second Month of Bouldering: Falling a Lot, Having a Blast
I've been bouldering pretty consistently for the past couple of months at Planet Granite, which has been a lot of fun and a very different kind of workout for me. I really enjoy working on a particular route, figuring out specific problems, falling a lot, and then eventually finding the solve. So satisfying. I vary…